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Society Incorporated (Incorporated under the Association Incorporation Act 1984) Mix your own fuel - and save heaps! |
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by David Foster
I can’t remember ever buying ready-mixed fuel from a shop. I’ve always
mixed my own. Not only do I know what I’m getting, ‘home brew’ costs a
fraction of proprietary fuels. My ‘straight’ (i.e., no nitro) glow fuel
costs $3.70 a litre; the hobby shops charge around $13.00 (fuel prices
went up 10% with the GST because there was no wholesale sales tax previously).
I use about 75 litres of fuel a year so the savings are really worthwhile.
How do you do it?
The castor versus synthetic oils argument still rages. I have been using Coolpower for years and never had any problems. Also Coolpower is much cleaner - it doesn’t turn to varnish and clag-up the engines’ internals (particularly the ball races) like castor oil does and the models are much easier to clean. Having said that I still like a bit of castor for the extra protection it provides. Some of my engines have been in constant use for more than 15 years without any problems or parts replacements, so I must be doing something right. Just as important as what you use is the way you use it. Cleanliness is the key. Ensure the containers and measures you use (if plastic make sure they are not styrene) are perfectly clean before you start. Ialways strain my fuel through several layers of old nylon stockings in a funnel when decanting into the final plastic jugs. It doesn’t take much to block jets in your engines’ carbies, so eliminating any foreign bodies is a worthwhile step. I’ve heard getting methanol on your skin is not a good idea, so I
always wear rubber gloves when mixing fuels. Also methanol is hygroscopic
- it absorbs moisture like a sponge. So always keep methanol containers
tightly capped when not in use - that applies to fuel containers too.
Water-contaminated fuel degrades engine performance and causes glow plugs
to burn out quicker.
Where do you get it?
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